Pocklington Post
Restaurant review
"...like a winning dish from Masterchef."
With a few raised eyebrows and a few ‘posh’ remarks
when I mentioned I was heading to joffco’s for
a meal, I realised with a reputation to provoke such a reaction, it had
a lot to live u to.
Tucked away in Holme-on-Spalding-Moor, you wouldn’t
think such a place could exist outside a setting like York’s Shambles.
Unlike a conventional restaurant, it’s simply a
converted house with the first-floor turned into two intimate dining rooms.
It’s Saturday night and there is no shortage of
diners.
You could even be forgiven for thinking you’ve walked
into someone’s living room when entering the premises.
Boasting that the ingredients are both fresh and local,
this is supported by chef and owner John Newlove, who is picking chives from
outside the restaurant as myself and my girlfriend Lucy turn up.
It would be hard to find anything more local or
fresher!
We’re offered to take a seat on one of the huge sofas
while the waitress offers us a menu each.
You won’t find any “build your own burger and chips on
this list though, just a handful of specialised dishes, all of which have their
own charms. After making our choices while sipping on a drink, a dish of
appetisers is brought out which includes warm crispy potato skins and olives.
A fine start, which to be honest, was also quite
unexpected.
We’re then taken to our table upstairs, in a room
where two other couples together are already enjoying their meals.
We’re offered a few slices of homemade bread, walnut wholemeal,
tomato and basil or cheese.
Excellent stuff; a few more slices with the garlic
butter on offer and I could have settled for that.
But then the starters arrive, and what a mouth-watering
sight! A plate of huge tiger prawns in garlic butter and rocket for Lucy, and a
trio of hot and cold smoked salmon and honey roasted salmon on rocket for my.
Presented like a winning dish from Masterchef, the
taste manages to surpass the look.
However; the best is yet to come.
Initially torn between a few choices, I opted for the
fillets of local beef on an open cup mushroom, with mozzarella, tomato,
beetroot and green beans on a peppercorn sauce. The beef is so tender that a
serrated-edge knife is not even needed, it simply comes apart at the slightest
touch and tastes absolutely fantastic.
Meanwhile, Lucy compliments the chicken. While chicken
is hardly the most exciting meat, cooked with caramelised red onions and wrapped
in smoked bacon on a basil cream proves that it really can be excellent.
With both of us leaving nothing but clean plates,
space for a dessert was non-existent... until we were handed the menus.
L liked the sound of the treacle tart with homemade
maple syrup ice cream. And for the third dish in a row, I think I chose the
best one, but then again so does Lucy with her cinnamon and toasted almond
bread and butter pudding!
There was still time for one more pleasant surprise
though, as a small plate of homemade truffles is delivered to the table.
They may have only been chocolates (beautifully
tasting, may I add) but once again the presentation provides an extra touch of
class with the letter ‘j’ spelt out in icing sugar in the middle of the plate.
I have no hesitation in recommending it if it’s
quality dining and service you’re after.
Nick Frame, Editor of The Pocklington Post
